We’ll tell you a secret: if you are looking for an off-the-beaten-track destination that distills all South Africa has to offer, then the Eastern Cape province is your answer. It is shamelessly beautiful and steeped in history – this was the home of Nelson Mandela, among other leaders. And it has a special appeal for anyone looking for more than the run of the mill.

Showcasing Diversity

Today, the Eastern Cape has a national botanical garden, promising to showcase the province’s rich natural diversity. The Kwelera National Botanical Garden is South Africa’s 10th – the new kid on the block, joining the heavyweights, like Kirstenbosch. It’s the Eastern Cape’s first national garden and the first to include coastal and riverine aspects. You can take a virtual tour here.

The garden is being developed and if all goes to plan, it could be up and running within 18 months. Seven of South Africa’s eight biomes are in the Eastern Cape, and we can expect to see all of them honored here. Caracal have been spotted in the thick coastal dune forest within the broader garden. Bushbuck and duiker roam here freely, moving in and out of the cultivated portion of the garden into the forest.

The Kwelera National Botanical Garden is unlike the other nine in another sense: it is the only national garden that wraps around a village, Kwelera Mouth. Here, the forest meets the beach and the sky meets the ocean.

Ngwenya Garden Cottage

And where the village meets the forest, you’ll find Ngwenya Garden Cottage. This is a comfortable getaway situated in a wild garden that flows into the coastal dune forest. The forest flows back, of course, with trees, shrubs, birds, and other wildlife. The South African National Biodiversity Institute (SANBI) manages the forest as part of the Kwelera National Botanical Garden.

Here, you immerse yourself in nature and peace. You forget that you are a mere 25km from the city of East London.

The Sounds of Nature

It’s quiet, but never silent at Ngwenya Garden Cottage. The sound of the sea, woven with birdsong or summer beetles, is constant. At any time, the hornbill could knock on your window or monkey dashing across your roof. Perhaps a long green (utterly harmless) bushsnake with big, big eyes will startle you. Or a porcupine will surprise you at your patio door.

You will likely spot a few bushbuck – or if you are lucky, the skittish blue duiker – wandering into the garden for a snack. There are lizards and skinks, guinea fowl, mongoose, and birds of all varieties.

The Wild Garden of Ngwenya

The cottage is named after the ngwenya tree (wild plum; proper name: Harpephyllum caffrum) that once towered over everything. Sadly, this old tree is on its way out; SANBI is monitoring it and has removed part of it.

The Ngwenga garden consists of mostly South African indigenous plants and trees – you’ll notice a handful of non-invasive exotics, like roses and daisy bushes, close to the cottage. But it becomes entirely native as you get closer to the dune forest – there are aloes, clivia and veltheimia (sand lilies), red hot pokers, plumbago, wild honeysuckle, wild olive, red coastal milkwood trees, felicia (blue daisies), osteospermum (African daisies) and allophylus trees, among others.

The cottage offers one bedroom with pure cotton linen, a fully equipped kitchen, large shower room, WiFi, a private patio, barbeque facilities, a large TV – more or less everything a nature lover who appreciates comfort and convenience would want.

Step Out

And when you step out of the garden, it’s a 100m stroll to the beach. This is a relatively quiet beach, good for walking, swimming (in gullies), shells, and fishing (you need a permit). It’s a pleasant walk towards the neighboring villages of Sunrise on Sea and Rainbow Valley.

The cottage is also 100m from the start of the gentle walk through the dune forest up Magoza Hill, the highest point, offering spectacular views of the area.

A favorite is a walk, just over 3km, around the Kwelera River mouth, past the Kwelera Point, along the shore, and back through the village. Dolphins often come close to shore here, and humpback whales and orca are frequent visitors in the cooler months.

Explore

You could use Ngwenya Garden Cottage as a base to explore the area. Kwelera Mouth lies along the Wild Coast Jikeleza, East London’s premier tourism route, packed with quaint eateries and game reserves. A leisurely drive along the East Coast resorts road will take you to the likes Chintsa East, where a fabulous flat beach stretches for 17km.

Further east, you will reach the Wild Coast in the former Transkei “Bantustan”, a truly hidden treasure for travelers looking for a few adventure travelers.

How to find Ngwenya Garden Cottage

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You can fly to the East London airport, about 30km away, from any of the larger cities in South Africa. You will need a car to reach Ngwenya Garden Cottage. Several major car hire companies have operations at the East London airport. Cross the Biko Bridge over the Buffalo River – where you’ll see South Africa’s only river port – and consider stopping at Latimer’s Landing on the east side of the harbor to enjoy a plate of fish and chips next to the water.

Then meander onwards to Ngwenya Garden Cottage. Rest and nature overload awaits you.